Development, not the clock
The number we steer by is the one on the right of the sheet: the time from first crack to the drop, as a share of the whole roast. A cold morning stretches every figure on the row and changes nothing about how the coffee tastes, as long as that ratio holds. Sheets 412 and 417 are the same coffee ten seconds apart and cupped level, which is the clearest argument for the ratio we have.
The turning point
Twelve kilos of green at room temperature drop the drum by seventy degrees in ninety seconds. The turning point is where that stops and the bean begins to heat instead. It moves with the load, the weather and how many batches have gone before it — which is why the third roast of a morning is never given the same gas as the first.
Weight loss
Water and chaff, weighed out of the batch. Fourteen per cent is a light washed lot, seventeen is as far as we go. It is the cheapest check on the sheet: if the loss is right and the ratio is right, the roast is almost certainly right, and if the loss drifts a point the probe is usually the thing that is lying.
Why sheet 411 is on the list
Because it happened. That batch went two degrees long, tasted of plum instead of blackcurrant, and was drunk in the roastery rather than sold. A log with the bad mornings taken out of it is an advertisement, not a record, and it would be no use to us the next time somebody knocks on the door at the wrong minute.